Know Your Diamond Settings

Whether you're choosing a diamond solitaire, a ring with a number of stones, or an open-work lattice ring in which the diamonds flow along the lines of the setting, the way the stones are held in the setting is an integral part of its design.

Each setting technique creates a look that is part of the overall style of the ring. You may like one ring rather than another simply because of the setting technique used.

Once you recognize these differences, you'll be prepared to analyze each ring at a glance and make a choice based on those elements that best please your taste.

To help guide you through the maze of stone settings available in today's market, here's a brief glossary of some of the more common ones you're likely to encounter:

Ballerina

A center stone is surrounded by baguettes (small rectangular stones) set side by side in a pattern suggesting a ballerina's tutu. Most commonly used in rings.

One of the classic multi-stone ring designs, the ballerina, derives its beauty from the placement of tapered baguettes which flow around a center stone to form a 'tutu', that short flared skirt worn by ballet dancers. There are ballerina rings in which baguettes are set in an undulating curve that literally emulates the tutu skirt of a dancer.

Each of the small diamonds may be held in prong settings, which give the slender rectangular diamonds the maximum chance to sparkle. The ballerina ring looks best on an average or larger-than-average hand. Like many multi-stone rings, it rises above the hand and has considerable dimension. For this reason it could overwhelm a small hand, so be advised.
 

Bar

Commonly used in wedding and anniversary bands, as well as necklaces and bracelets. A line of stones are set together, separated by a thin bar between each
adjoining stone that holds them in place.

Bead

 If the flush setting is subtle, the bezel setting is its bolder sister. A bezel is a collar of precious metal that wraps around the diamond.

The bezel is attached to the top of the ring and stands up above it, adding height and another dimension to the setting. Although solid bezels have a very traditional look, the bezel may be 'split' into two sections, arcing around just part of the diamond. This is called a half bezel.

This simple change suddenly opens up the setting and gives it a totally modern look. The technique may also be used on a fancy cut diamond -- with an arc of precious metal around the wide curve of a pear shape and another, V-shaped section of precious metal embracing the narrow end.
 

Channel setting is also used to set round diamonds. Channel setting offers a sleek, elegant appearance, though the end result is a very different look.

Setting round diamonds into channels leaves small spaces closest to the metal bars of the channel. By choosing round diamonds, the designer creates a clean line of stones, yet one with greater brilliance than is possible with baguettes. This also offers a less restrained look, and may be more suitable when a ring has a round center stone.

Channel setting is also used when there is no center stone at all. The placement of baguettes around an entire band is a beautiful choice for a wedding band, one that goes well with a matching ring set with a diamond solitaire.

Channel setting protects the diamonds extremely well. None of the edges are exposed, and so they are not subject to hard knocks or general wear and tear.

A variation of the channel set is called the bar channel. Here, the metal plates rise to top level of the stone, and so are visible between the stones. This gives a slightly different visual effect, and can be very striking if the contrast between the metal and the stone is significant.
 

The cluster setting is another variation on the theme of choosing a ring with a number of smaller diamonds. There are cluster rings with the stones arranged in the form of a stylized flower, or those done as an abstract arrangement of stones.

Cluster rings are usually multi-level, with considerable height above the hand. The arrangement of stones can be quite open and airy looking, or it may be more tightly arranged. The choice is a matter of taste, but the shape of the finger can also play a role in making that choice.

Remember that the openwork design lengthens the look of the finger and the hand, while the more closed design draws the eye toward the hand.

The flush setting is one of the subtlest diamond-setting techniques. Stones are sunk into the mounting until they are nearly level or flush with the surface. Only the table of the stone and a bit of the upper pavilion facets show.

This technique seems to go against everything we know about diamonds in relation to light, but it's become quite a popular setting. It's a very subtle look, and one that appeals to the woman who likes the idea of tiny, glittering bits of light twinkling like stars in the sky.

The flush setting is also used for larger stones, offering great protection and a modern look.

 

When the surface of a ring appears to be covered with tiny diamonds, the technique is called Pavé which means paved. It's an apt name because the surface looks a bit like a very pretty street paved with cobblestones.

Tiny diamonds are placed in small holes that have been drilled out of the ring shank. On a band that does not taper across the top, each diamond should be exactly the same size. The diamonds are placed in rows, but in such a way that they fill as much of the space of the surface as is possible without actual touching. The more precisely cut the diamonds, the better the final appearance of the ring.
When the surface of a ring appears to be covered with tiny diamonds, the technique is called Pavé which means paved. It's an apt name because the surface looks a bit like a very pretty street paved with cobblestones.

Tiny diamonds are placed in small holes that have been drilled out of the ring shank. On a band that does not taper across the top, each diamond should be exactly the same size. The diamonds are placed in rows, but in such a way that they fill as much of the space of the surface as is possible without actual touching. The more precisely cut the diamonds, the better the final appearance of the ring.

Each tiny diamond, weighing just a few points, is fully cut with 58 facets. Though small in size, each stone contributes to the overall, shimmering look of the design. After it is positioned in its hole, tiny bits of metal from the surface of the shank are pushed over the edge of the diamond, forming tiny beads to hold the stone in place.

Pavé is a demanding technique that is most successfully accomplished in the hands of a patient and extremely talented jeweller.

The cost of a Pavé-set diamond ring is in the hand setting of the diamonds; as such, it is often much more a determinant of price than the cost of the diamonds and the gold. To evaluate a ring that is Pavé set, look at the overall design. Are the diamonds laid out in such a way that the entire surface of the ring looks like a glittering carpet of gems? That's the sign of a well-designed and well-made ring.

If a section of the ring is Pavé-set, with certain areas tapering to a point, the diamonds should diminish in size as the Pavé area narrows. This requires the most precise selection of diamonds.

All of these elements add to the time needed to make a ring, and -- as the saying goes -- time is money. The value of a Pavé-set ring is not as obvious as one set with a major solitaire; but when you appreciate the work needed to produce one, you'll also appreciate a fair price when you see it.
 

 Let's start with the prong setting, the one most often used to hold a solitaire. Prong setting puts the emphasis on the stones and not the metal. The purpose of any setting is to hold the diamonds securely in the mounting and at the same time allow light to enter the diamonds for maximum brilliance.

This is obviously a delicate balancing act. The more metal used to hold the diamonds, the more secure they are; the less metal used, the greater the chance for the diamond to reflect light. For this reason, platinum is often the metal of choice for diamond solitaires.

Because platinum is both dense and strong, very thin wires of it are sufficient to hold the diamond securely in place. The diamond may be raised high up above the shank, to give it a larger, more important appearance, with only a suggestion of metal showing.

In such a setting, the prongs are attached to the central setting of a ring, known as the head or basket. Each prong extends upward and outward from the head, arching over the diamond to form a secure grip.

The ideal prong tapers to a rounded point. It should be smoothly finished, diminishing any chance of the prong snagging the threads of your clothes. The prongs should also be placed at the key points of the stone, typically at four corners or at four, five or six points evenly spaced around the stone, to offer security without interfering with the stone's brilliance.
The prong setting can also be found in a few variations. One such variation, called the V-prong setting, functions on the same basic concept, but it uses prongs which, when viewed from above, appear to be curved into a V-shape. The right angle of the wire is cut to allow the corner of the gem to rest and be held by the wire.

Another variation on the prong setting is called the common prong. Here, the metal wire is grooved at the top, and is used to hold two gemstones by their side (girdle). This technique is used to give a close side-by-side gemstone relationship without the metallic interference of too many prongs.