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Diamonds: Information

Every diamond is different, incorporating a complex constellation of factors that determine the rarity of each stone. Although gemologists train for years to master the art and science of diamond appraisal, with a little basic instruction, anyone can learn how to read an appraisal and compare the grades of different stones.

Each diamond is as unique as the person who owns it. Just as a diamond reflects the color of the light it bears, it should also reflect the personality of the individual who wears it. Here lies the art of selecting a diamond, for yourself or as a gift.

Your knowledge of yourself, if you are buying for yourself, or your knowledge of a loved one, if the diamond is a gift, is expressed in your selection. Through your choice of a diamond, you are making a public statement about the loved one--and about your relationship--and that statement is repeated every time the diamond is worn.

This is why, for many women, there is such mystique in diamond jewelry gifts, and why, for many men, there is such uncertainty in its selection. What is important in the selection of a diamond has little to do with the cost of the jewelry and much to do with the richness of the relationship.

Truly flawless diamonds are very rare, and very expensive, so you will seldom face the task of selecting a perfect diamond. It is a fairly simple matter to find beautiful diamonds with no flaws visible to the naked eye and buy them at reasonable prices.

Diamonds are graded using a system that judges the stone on its color, clarity, cut and carat weight - commonly known as the "four C's." Diamonds of uncommonly high quality and size are often sold as "certified diamonds" and come with a certificate that proves the stone's value. Even non-certified diamonds, however, should be evaluated using the four C's to help determine cost.

In this section, you will learn what each of the C's means and how it affects the value of the diamond. Although it takes a trained eye to actually see the qualities described here, knowing what they mean can help you make a good choice in selecting your diamond.

Diamond Information

Color	Most diamonds appear colorless but actually have slight tones of yellow or brown. The closer the stone comes to colorless, the more valuable it is. Diamonds are graded on a color scale ranging from D (colorless) to Z (heavily tinted.) Only a highly skilled professional will detect any color in E or F stones, and the color in diamonds rated up to J will be virtually invisible when set in a ring or other jewelry. Color is only one of the four C's so even when a stone has a visible tint, such as K or above, it can still be very lovely if it has good clarity and cut. How the diamond is set can make a difference, too; you might not want to put a truly colorless diamond in a yellow gold setting since the yellow color will reflect in the stone. On the other hand, a slightly yellow stone will appear whiter in a yellow gold setting. Diamonds also come in a wide variety of other colors, including red, blue, green and a bright yellow known as "canary." These are graded as Z+ and are known as "fancy" diamonds. Ones with good color are very rare and can sell for much more per carat than white diamonds. The following is the GIA color scale, which is very commonly used in the United States:

Clarity	It is very common for diamonds to be formed with slight imperfections. These are known as "inclusions" and can come in many forms, including tiny white points, dark dots, or feathery cracks. The fewer inclusions, the more the stone is worth. A diamond's clarity ranking is determined by the number, size, type and placement of the inclusions. A stone with only a few hard-to-see pinpricks located near the edge, where they can be covered by the mounting, has better clarity than a stone with a crack located right under the table (the large top facet of the stone). Cracks from the surface to the interior are especially dangerous because the diamond could break if hit the wrong way. On the other hand, small nicks and chips on the surface are often of little concern because they can be polished away. For the most part, diamonds used in jewelry are clean to the naked eye. In a certified diamond, the cracks are charted on the certificate and act as a fingerprint for identifying a particular stone. The following is the GIA clarity scale, along with corresponding definitions for different clarity grades, which is very commonly used in the United States:

Cut	In the strictest definition of the term, "cut" is not the same thing as "shape" - for example, the most popular cut for a diamond is the round brilliant cut, but there are also round Swiss cuts, round Old European cuts, and round 144-facet cuts. For the most part, however, the terms are used interchangeably, including on this site. The 58-facet round brilliant cut is the most popular because of its fire and brilliance. (These terms describe the intensity of the color and brightness of the light one sees in a diamond.) This is achieved by cutting the stone to very exacting mathematically-determined proportions so as much light as possible is reflected out the top of the diamond. The cut of a diamond refers not only to the shape of the diamond and number of facets, but also to the quality of the cut. A diamond with uneven or poorly proportioned facets won't be given the same grade of cut as an ideally proportioned and masterfully cut stone. This information will be found on the certificate of a certified diamond. Although most diamonds on the market today are round brilliants, there are many different shapes available. The following chart shows some of the most popular shapes:

Carat	Carat is the term used to describe the weight of any gemstone, including diamonds. Although the definition of a carat has changed over time, since 1913 the international standard has been 200 milligrams, or 1/5 of a gram. Often, jewelers describe carats in 1/4 increments. In jewelry pieces with more than one diamond, the carats may be described in terms of total carat weight (TW). This is the combined total weight of all the stones in the piece. Diamonds can range in size from a fraction of a carat to several carats. Given the rarity of large stones, however, the price increases rapidly with size; therefore, a single 2-carat diamond will cost much more than two 1-carat diamonds. Very large diamonds with good color and clarity are very rare. Expect to pay a premium for stones that are above a full carat weight. For example, a .95 carat diamond will cost a bit more than a .90 carat stone, but a 1-carat stone will cost significantly more than a .95 carat stone. Because round brilliant cuts follow exact standards, you can make a good estimate of the carat weight of the stone based on the stone's diameter. The following chart compares the relative sizes of stones and describes how much a round brilliant diamond of a certain size is likely to weigh. This method doesn't work as well for other cuts or shapes, though, since some are thicker or thinner than others; nor does this chart apply to colored gemstones, which have a different density from diamonds.

Diamond Care	While diamonds are the hardest minerals, they still require some care to keep them looking their best and to protect them from loss or damage. A regular professional cleaning is recommended. Diamond jewelry can easily acquire a buildup of dirt, makeup and other materials that diminish its brightness, especially if it's worn every day. Many jewelers, including Hannoush Jewelers, offer professional cleaning. Avoid using ultrasonic cleaners if your diamond has a serious crack or inclusion. The vibrations of these cleaners can enlarge such flaws. What could possibly scratch a diamond? Another diamond. To prevent such scratches, separate diamond jewelry in your jewelry box. Diamonds also can scratch other gems or jewelry, especially soft items like pearls. And even though diamonds are hard, they can be brittle, especially along thin edges. Try not to wear your diamond when it might be struck sharply, and if you have an especially thin cut, keep it protected. Perhaps even more distressing than chipping a diamond is losing one. When you go in for cleaning, ask the jeweler to check the setting and make sure the stone is secure. If it seems loose, bring it in for repair immediately. Also avoid setting diamonds in very soft metals like 24k gold, which bends easily.
Diamond Science	For all the beauty and complexity of a well-cut diamond, they are the simplest of gemstones in the chemical sense: pure carbon, the same as the graphite in a pencil. They are formed under intense heat and pressure deep within the earth, and are forced to the surface by geological events. Diamonds are harder than any other material on earth, earning them a 10 on the Mohs' scale of hardness. They can only be cut by other diamonds. Their hardness and other special qualities, such as how they refract light, allow them to be cut into the amazing gems we know today. Gem-quality diamonds are mined around the world, but the largest producers are South Africa and its neighbors. Russia, Australia and Brazil are also major producers. Diamonds come from the mines in crystals, often with eight sides. As much as 60 percent of the original crystal is cut away to create a round brilliant diamond.
Diamond Myth	Diamonds have been at the heart of myth and legend since their discovery. Medieval knights wore them uncut on their armor in the belief that they could make a person invincible, a myth no doubt related to the stone's hardness. There are legends of a diamond that could reveal the guilt or innocence of a person. Diamonds could also drive away the devil, and in the days when gems were believed to cure disease and ill fortune, diamonds were thought to amplify the magical powers of other stones a person wore. Almost universally, diamonds have been associated with virtue, purity, strength, wealth, power, and love - and, not surprisingly, diamonds have been associated with sex, too. So it was a small jump for diamonds to become the modern symbol of love - diamond wedding rings have been popular for hundreds of years. They were believed to ensure fidelity and strengthen emotional bonds. Today, they are the preferred gift for all manner of romantic occasions. There is one important footnote to the magic of diamonds: the magic was lost if the stone was acquired by purchase. When found or given as a gift, however, it would convey its power to the recipient, which no doubt accounts for how diamonds became such a popular gift between lovers.

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Last Updated August, 2004

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